Lemon Tree - Trees - The Reference Library A categorised archive of useful gardening topics - Real Gardeners - Message Board - Yuku

Happening today...

Real Gardeners
> Trees

0 Kudo

Lemon Tree

<< Previous Topic Next Topic >>

Author	Comment
Mrs Muggleton	Lemon Tree		Lead	[-]
Established Tree Posts: 4798 20-03-04 19:10 Established Tree	Tags : None Not sure if this should be in Veggie forum as it is edible!! I have today, bought a lemon tree for my conservatory. It is about a foot high, with lots of stems off the main trunk. It has flower buds on it which will soon be coming out. Do I have to put it in a special compost or will ordinary stuff do? Will it need any special care. All the name says is that is it is a hybrid Lemon producing lots of small fruit.
Interact My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Invite Blocking Ignore User's Posts
PaulineM	Re: Lemon Tree	#1	[url]	[-]
Established Tree Posts: 21007 20-03-04 19:14 Retired Auctioneer	Now I dare say that depends whether you bought it as an ornamental tree or intend to harvest the crop! I'd have thought they need good drainage (judging by where they grow out-of-doors), and it sounds delightful.
Interact My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Invite Blocking Ignore User's Posts
Mrs Muggleton	Re: Lemon Tree	#2	[url]	[-]
Established Tree Posts: 4798 20-03-04 19:18 Established Tree	I thought so Paulene, it seemed to be a bargain at 15 as all the others I saw when looking last year were 30 upwards. However, just been into town and Wilkinsons have baby versions (only 1 or 2 stems) for 3.99!!!
Interact My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Invite Blocking Ignore User's Posts
trevor211	Re: Lemon Tree	#3	[url]	[-]
Posts: 2179 20-03-04 19:29 Mature Shrub	Mrs Mugs Sounds like you had a bargen, that was about the price I paid a few years ago. If you look under another thread about Lemons you will see a picture of my Lemon picked 4 off this morning. Citrus trees make interesting and attractive indoor plants. They provide year-round interest with fragrant white flowers, followed by small fruits, which take 4-6 months to reach full size. The fruits can be picked at any time after ripening, and will retain their flavour on the tree for several months. The miniature-fruited Calamondin tree makes an excellent houseplant for a window sill while the larger-fruited varieties are ideal for conservatories and greenhouses, on any light position which has adequate room to accommodate their growth. Light: All Citrus enjoy high light levels, so smaller plants will do well on a windowsill in the house. Larger plants need a conservatory, or sheltered summer garden, but should be given supplementary light if they are kept away from windows indoors. Be careful not to allow leaf scorch in direct summer sun through glass. When there is no danger of frost, Citrus trees like to be outside in the summer months. However they must be acclimatised gradually to the new light level, by being moved first to a slightly shaded area outside for 2-3 weeks before being put in their sheltered, sunny spot for the summer. Equally when being bought indoors in winter, they should be kept in the shade for 2-3 weeks before coming inside. This reduces any stress to the leaves that the sudden light change could cause. Heat: Most Citrus trees can tolerate temperatures down to 4C (even 2C for a short period . They must not be frosted. but a cool period is useful over the winter to rest. They are also tolerant of high temperatures, but prefer to be at neither extreme for too long. Owners are often unaware of just how hot there conservatory can become on sunny days and of the stress this can cause to their plants and trees. A min/max thermometer is a must for measuring temperatures when no-one is around. Central heating can put the trees under stress in winter, and ideally they do better in a cool room or conservatory, rather than a warm living room. (See last page for cold hardiness). Water: Water less often in winter without letting the pot dry out completely, and increase the amount of water once the growth starts in spring. In a hot conservatory the trees will dry out more quickly than outside and may need watering as often as once a day in sunny weather; and possibly as seldom as once a fortnight in cloudy winter weather in a cool conservatory. The big pots take a lot of water, so enough must be given to reach the lower part of the pot (maybe several gallons). Be flexible about watering judge the need by the look of the compost rather than the day of the week. Over-watering can cause problems too, by drowning the roots and creating stagnant soil conditions which encourage pot diseases. Feeding: The trees should be fed weekly when in growth with a Citrus fertilizer (high in trace elements). Use summer formulations from March to September inclusive and the Winter formulation fortnightly throughout the rest of the year. If Citrus food is not available, then a seaweed based fertiliser is adequate if supplemented with the occasional dose of sequestrated iron and trace elements when any yellowing of the leaves occurs. Foliar feeding can also be helpful in correcting deficiencies. Too much feed will lead to scorching of the leaf tips, and it is a good idea to wash the compost through with lots of water once in Summer and again in Autumn to avoid a build up of fertiliser salt. Humidity: The ideal humidity is about 50%. In hot weather and in central heating, humidity can drop dramatically. If the leaves show signs of stress, the humidity can be raised by a fine spray or standing pots on trays of wet gravel. In centrally heated conditions, a humidifier can be helpful. Increased humidity will also discourage red spider mite attack. Flowers and Fruit: Generally flowering takes place in May, but may occur several times a in the year with fruit setting each time. An enormous number of fragrant flowers appear, but only about 1% will set on the large trees (more than this would overload the branches when the fruit reaches full size). Calamondins and Kumquats and some Lemons set a higher percentage of fruit and may have to be thinned to avoid weighing the branches down too much. Dry hot conditions will not favour fruit set which can be improved by misting the flowers. The fruit gradually develops and turns colour around Christmas time. (The colder weather tends to act as a trigger for colouring). It will then stay on the tree for several months after ripening. Calamondins and Valencia late Orange trees are noted particularly for holding the ripe fruit on the branches for 6-10 months. Pollination: Most Citrus trees are self pollinating, with the exception of some Mandarines when cross-pollination with a Orange improves the yield. Leaves: Citrus trees are evergreen and will naturally drop an old leaf from time to time. If however there is a lot of leaf drop, then the first thing to look at is whether the tree is too dry. This is generally the cause, particularly in the lower half of a big pot. The second most common reason is poor light so moving the tree to a lighter position may solve the problem. Over watering can also cause problems do not give more water until the surface of the compost is looking dry. Inadequate feeding may also cause leaf drop; this can be rectified particularly effectively with special Citrus food. Should the leaves drop for any reason, do not be immediately discouraged, as the tree will most likely grow a new crop of beautiful glossy leaves in a month or two, and flower soon after. Often heavy flowering and new leaf growth trigger some leaf drop in Spring. This is quite normal and new leaves will fill gaps: but more diligent feeding may avoid this leaf drop in the first place. Pruning: To keep the trees in shape, pinch out the growing tip once a branch is 10-15 cm (4-6) long. Regular pinching out of branches will encourage busy growth nearer the middle of the tree, and this can be carried out at any time of the year. Pruning of large branches is best done in February, just before growth starts speeding up, bearing in mind that Citrus trees store excess food in their leaves, so removing too much leaf may result in a poor crop. Repotting: In general it is best to repot just before or during the growing months, rather than in the Autumn or Winter. Either loam or peat-based composts can be used, mixed with extra sand or grit to improve drainage, and preferably crocks in the bottom of the pot. The ideal pH is 5-5.5 so a slightly acid (ericaceous) compost is beneficial. Loam based composts will give welcome increased stability for trees outside, but it will make large trees extremely heavy to move in and out of doors with the change of seasons. Where possible pot up one size each time, with enough depth to cover the top feeder roots and give a 1 reservoir for water. Repotting (contd) In normal conservatory conditions, where the size of tree is to be restricted, a final pot size of 45cm (18) will be adequate. Once it has reached this size pot. instead or reppoting into a larger size, take the rootball out of the pot at the end of February: if it is overcrowded wit roots, cut off about 2.5-5cm (1-2) all round the edges, and put back into the same pot with fresh compost around the edges; or, if this has been done before with the same tree, remove 3 vertical triangles of compost from the rootball, and fill the gaps. Try and roughly match the original compost, i.e, use a loam-based compost, if that has been used before. Keep the tree fairly cool and shaded for the following month, in order not to make great demand on the root system until it has started re-growing. Varieties in order of cold Hardiness: Most tender (Min.6C) Citron Lime (Min4C) Lemon (other than Meyer) Grapefruit Orange Mandarine/Clementine Meyer Lemon, Calamondin, Satsuma, Kumquat Fukushu Most cold tolerant (Min2C) Kumquat Nagami Pests: The most likely pest are aphids (greenfly), red spider mite and mealybug. These can be controlled with an appropriate off-the-shelf spray. Occasionally scale insect may settle on Citrus, and can again, be killed with an appropriate insecticide spray, or by dabbing with methylated spirit. As dead scale inset can harbour viable eggs under it, any scales are best removed by rubbing or scraping gently with a fingernail. A systemic insecticide can be used to very good effect, but should be used with caution when there is any intention of eating the fruit within 2-3 weeks. (See insecticide bottle for details about use on vegetables and fruit). Sprays containing Dimethoate may cause some leaf fall in Citrus, but this is not usually too serious. Biological control: Insects are the easiest and cleanest methods of keeping pests down in the whole conservatory, but should not be introduced for 6 weeks after chemical sprays have been used. In these 6 weeks, a fatty acid (insecticidal soap) spray may be used, as it is best to reduce pest populations as much as possible before bringing in any beneficial insects. Average temperatures of above 20C are necessary for most biological control agents, so they are used only between April and September, unless high levels of heat and light can be provided at other times. Against Red spider mites: Phytosieulus persimilis Whitefly: Encarsia formosa Thrips: Amblyseius cucumeris Aphids: Aphidius Mealybug: Cryptolaemus montrouzieri Vine Weevil: Hortinem (Nematodes) Caterpillar: Bacillus theringiensis (Bacterial powder for spraying) Scale insect: Metaphycus helvollus Hope this will help you to look after it. Enjoy Trevor
Interact My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Invite Blocking Ignore User's Posts
Jean78	Re: Lemon Tree	#4	[url]	[-]
Established Tree Posts: 7065 20-03-04 19:29 Established Tree	Seen the same thing at Wilko's, Muggs. Think I will get one
Interact My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Invite Blocking Ignore User's Posts
Mrs Muggleton	Re: Lemon Tree	#5	[url]	[-]
Established Tree Posts: 4798 20-03-04 20:29 Established Tree	Wow Trevor! Thankyou!
Interact My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Invite Blocking Ignore User's Posts
Seahorse67	Re: Lemon Tree	#6	[url]	[-]
Flowering Annual Posts: 117 20-03-04 20:35	Think I'll have a look at the Wilko's ones as well! Claire
Interact My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Invite Blocking Ignore User's Posts
undergardener	Re: Lemon Tree	#7	[url]	[-]
Posts: 746 21-03-04 13:31	I am on my third lemon tree, the others died after about 2 years. This was despite what books describe in the looking after of the trees. The lemons were bought from a reputable source about 5 miles away from us, and were good healthy plants when bought. The main problem was each winter they gradually got weaker, and die back occured on the branches. No amount of cutting away the dead part would stop the die back. With this third lemon, I said it would be the last time I would try. We travelled about 65 miles this time to The Citrus Centre in Sussex. The lady we spoke to was extremely helpfull when I described the problems I had with the previous lemon trees. She very soon diagnosed what I had been doing wrong, (I hope). The main thing was the watering, Too little at each watering and too often, not leading to overwatering, but under watering. The water was not flushing out the harmfull chemicals that build up in the soil, and stop the roots from growing. So, when the soil has become quite dry, even too the extent that the leaves become a little limp, give it a really good water with feed in every watering. The mixture of soil they use is very open, and the water streams out the bottom of the pot immediately, but keep watering as it seems you won't overwater. Dont water again until dry as above description. The feed they supply is different to the previous specialist citrus grower, and it is used throughout the year, there is no winter or summer separate feed. Contary to some books I have read, the citrus will take temperatures down to +5c, and that is what the nursery keep the greenhouses at. So instead of keeping the lemon in the conservatory at +10c, we are keeping it in the greenhouse at a min of +7c. They did emphasize good light, and although the sides of their greenhouses are bubble wrapped the roofs are not. I do so love the smell of the flowers, and can remember walking in a small village in the mountains of Spain, and finding a small church, with citrus growing all around it covered in flowers. The scent was unbelievable, I picked one flower and put it on the dashboard of the car, and the perfume stayed for days. Please Please may I have lasting success with my lemon tree, then I might also buy an orange tree
Interact My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Invite Blocking Ignore User's Posts
Seahorse67	Re: Lemon Tree	#8	[url]	[-]
Flowering Annual Posts: 117 23-03-04 11:44	Went off to Wilko and bought my tiny lemon tree (off back tomorrow as I was sorely tempted by the orange.....and the fig.....and.....and..... ) I'll do my best to follow the advice above! Claire
Interact My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Invite Blocking Ignore User's Posts
Linda32	Re: Lemon Tree	#9	[url]	[-]
Established Tree Posts: 9096 26-03-04 14:58 Established Tree	, I rather fancy the idea of a lemon tree and I have a spot in the house which would do, the only question I have is it would be infront of reeded glass, would this give enough light, but not too much heat. This is west facing
Interact My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Invite Blocking Ignore User's Posts

<< Previous Topic Next Topic >>

Quick Reply